44 times Belgrade has been burnt to the ground. Traces removed of people, buildings, deep holes in history. I’ve been here lots but this time it’s been two months consecutively. What a difference to take a city’s pulse like this, especially somewhere that is warm and exciting but looks grey and unloved. It’s a city where the layers of life come at you in a different way, you can’t see the things that have happened so easily. Maybe some cities are always ‘wanted’ from the then invaders to the now tourists. One month more and I know it will be hard to leave. (Though I love you London and you’re the best in autumn).